In Oregon’s emerging truffle industry, I feel like a newcomer to the party. Admittedly, this truffle season I finally experienced my first cooking session with these quirky characters, legendary for their aphrodisiacal attributes.
At my local Roth’s market, I spotted a small collection of the knotted balls of excess on display, marked $199 lb. According to “D”, our produce manager, the white truffles were provided by a reliable local purveyor who’s very tight lipped about their actual location in the wild. At that price, he should be.
“D” suggested shaving them over a light pasta dish. With white truffles, it seems much of their musky ephemeral garlic-like attributes are linked to their aroma, which can be fairly fleeting. Thus, peppering the top of the dish, allows the most extreme up-close-and-personal olfactory sensation. Since the heat of the pasta would cause the aroma to drift upward, salad would be deferred to a later date.
Truffles have an affinity to butter and cream, too. Many of the dishes from Italy’s Piedmont region and specifically Alba, where truffles go for thousands of dollars a pound, are prepared quite simply. Often pasta is tossed in a butter sauce seasoned with Parmesan. Fresh truffle is then shaved on lavishly in front of the salivating guest.
My solution was a little different. I took my old Pasta Carbonara, deleted the bacon, sautéed local mushrooms in a small amount of butter, tossed in the hot pasta, and added raw egg with Parmesan cheese to make a light sauce.
Into the bowls it all went. A razor-sharp grater of some sort is necessary to shave truffles as thin as possible: my handy garlic shaver worked like a pro. Oh, my…
Mushroom Carbonara with Truffles
3 Tbsp. butter, or part EVOO
1 shallot, minced
1 clove garlic, flattened
6 oz. wild or domestic mushrooms, cleaned and sliced
2-3 leaves sage, chopped, or 1 tsp fresh rosemary, minced
1 lb. linguine, cooked in salted boiling water until al dente; reserve 1 cup pasta water
3 eggs, beaten
1/2 cup Parmesan cheese, freshly grated, divided
Salt and pepper to taste
1 white truffle, gently wiped clean
- In a large sauté pan, heat the butter, add the shallot and garlic and cook until transparent, about 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms, herbs, salt and pepper, and sauté until the mushrooms soften and begin to release their juices. Remove the garlic.
- In a small bowl, beat the eggs and add half of the Parmesan cheese.
- Over moderate heat, add the hot pasta to the mushroom mixture. Reduce heat, pour the egg-cheese mixture over the pasta and toss to coat well. It will make its own sauce and have shiny appearance, if it looks dry, add some of the reserved pasta water. Sprinkle in the remaining Parmesan cheese and a grinding of freshly ground pepper. Portion into pasta bowls. At the table, shave fresh truffle over the tops of the pasta. Serves 4