Scottish Salmon anyone?

A package of Scottish Smoked Salmon caught my eye at the grocery store recently. It was a thick slice from a fillet weighing between 5-6 ounces in size, similar in shape to a cut of hot smoked Pacific Northwest salmon. But it was softer when pressed—on the order of a chunk of cold smoked Nova.  I was intrigued…

When I opened it later, I discovered the salmon’s skin was attached and it was wonderfully moist and flaked easily.  It’s richly smoked flavor was more intense than the usual Nova salmon—somewhere between hot smoked and Nova. Oh yum. This delicacy would require a light touch to retain its essence and beauty. 

After considering my options, I decided to feature the salmon in a light, creamy Pasta Carbonara. 

I’d go with a fettucine rounded it out with mild artichoke quarters, a bit of roasted red pepper and peas for color—and fold in the salmon at the last minute. If the lovely Scottish smoked salmon is not available, go with your next best choice, either Nova or hot smoked.  

Since there isn’t much prep for this dish, it’s best to have everything ready as it all happens in the blink of an eye.  Frozen peas are set out on the counter at the onset. Canned quartered artichokes are used rather than fresh or frozen and tossed lightly with mild vinaigrette.  I used a variety of fettucine that only takes 5 minutes and started it cooking before beginning the carbonara. 

First, the vegetables are heated in a sauté pan and the hot drained pasta is added and combined. When well heated, the pan is removed from the heat. The egg mixture is poured over the hot pasta forming its own creamy sauce with more Parmesan added in. Any residual heat should be enough for the eggs to bind and cling to the pasta. If in doubt briefly return to heat. Too much heat can run the risk of a scrambled mess.

 

Top with the glorious smoked salmon and a few chives or green onions, give a light toss and dinner is served! 

Smoked Salmon Carbonara

Ingredients

  • 1-2 Tbsp olive oil
  • 1 large clove garlic, small slivers
  • ⅓ cup roasted red peppers, strips
  • 1 cup quartered artichokes, rinse, drain, cut if large. If time permits, marinate  briefly in 1-2 Tbsp vinaigrette
  • 1 cup frozen peas
  • 3 eggs
  • ¼ tsp each salt & red pepper flakes
  • ¾ cup fresh grated Parmesan cheese, divided
  • 12 oz. fettuccine, cooked al dente, 1 cup salted pasta water, reserved
  • 5 oz. Scottish smoked salmon, broken up – or equivalent Nova or hot smoked salmon
  • salt and freshly ground pepper as needed
  • 2 Tbsp chives or green onion slivers

Instructions

  1. Cook the pasta in a large pot of salted boiling water until al dente.  Drain and reserve 1 cup pot liquid.
  2. Meanwhile, in a large skillet over medium heat, sauté garlic briefly in olive oil. Add roasted red peppers and drained artichokes, gently toss to incorporate flavors. Add the defrosting peas, cook 1-2 minutes to heat well.  
  3. Beat eggs with red pepper flakes and a pinch of salt. Slowly whisk ½ cup of the hot pasta liquid into the eggs to temper them and stir in ¼ cup of grated cheese. 
  4. Reduce heat to medium, toss the pasta and vegetables together in the hot skillet. Drizzle with olive oil to avoid sticking to pan and remove from heat.
  5. Pour the egg mixture over the pasta/vegetables to evenly coat; sprinkle with more cheese. Add more hot pasta water if needed to form a creamy sauce; adjust seasoning.
  6. Top with the smoked salmon pieces and gently combine; overmixing can reduce freshness and color. Sprinkle with chives or green onion.  Yield:  4 generous servings

Transported

Nothing draws me in faster these days than books, movies, and food from other cultures, especially those set in sunny seaside locations.

Number One on my list:  Greece and its many idyllic islands.

Agistri, courtesy Kernpanik 

What a package to contemplate. Glistening beaches, deep blue seas, craggy mountains, a vast history of innovative, resilient people, and magnificent cuisine. Ah, the sun drenched food: the hand-crafted cheeses, the olives and their oils, glorious fruits and vegetables, and the seafood.

On My Greek Table recently, Diane Kochilas whipped up a fascinating version of avgolemono soup laced with fresh fish. It stayed with me and kept replaying in my head… Yes, I should eat more fish, I need this soup.

At its core, avgolemono is a classic Greek soup thickened with eggs and a lively amount of lemon juice—teamed with fish is surely a heavenly match.  As much as I would love to tackle a whole fresh fish like the one Diane tossed around, they are hard to come by.  I’d be lucky to find fresh fish fillets.

I’d adjust my plan, settle on a slightly less authentic version and be happy with rock fillets.  For a modified stock I’d improvise and incorporate a couple bottles of briny, easy-to-find clam broth (usually stocked in the canned fish section).

The soup base starts with a quick sauté of onion and other vegetables, a bay leaf is added, and it’s all simmered with clam stock. Then, fish fillets are layered in for a brief poach and stock boost. When firm to the touch, the fish is pulled to cool and remove any lurking pin bones. The stock volume is increased to accommodate addition of the traditional rice component and cooked until tender.

For the emulsion process, the eggs and lemon juice are whisked together (cornstarch can be included to further ensure soup binding) and tempered with hot stock. It is then poured into the hot soup and stirred in one direction (this motion ensures a smooth consistency) until it becomes thick, silky and bright—hallmarks of this legendary soup.

Greece in a bowl

Finally, fish pieces are re-warmed in the pot and the soup is ladled into waiting bowls.  Finish it with a dusting of fresh dill or marjoram and pass more lemon.

In spite of alterations the soup retains its winsome character—blithely brimming with essence of sun and sea—thanks to the magical egg and lemon emulsion.

Avgolemono Fish Soup

Inspired by Diane Kochilas, My Greek Table.  Chicken and chicken broth can be substituted for fish ingredients.

Ingredients
1 Tbsp olive oil
1 small onion, chop
1 stalk celery, chop
1 medium carrot, peel, chop
1 clove garlic, mince
6-7 cups fish fumet, clam stock/water, divided
1 bay leaf
¾ lb fresh fish, rock or other firm fleshed fish
salt and pepper
½ cup rice, basmati is good
3 eggs, room temperature
¼ cup fresh lemon juice, from 2-3 lemons
1 Tbsp cornstarch (optional)
fresh lemon and herbs such as dill or marjoram

Instructions

1.  In a soup pot over medium heat, sauté the onion in olive oil until translucent. Add the celery, carrot, and bay leaf and sauté briefly. Add 4 cups liquid and bring to a boil; reduce heat and simmer 15-20 minutes.
2.  At a low simmer, layer in the fish fillets, sprinkle with salt and pepper, cover and poach for 10 minutes, until the fish is opaque. With a wide spatula, carefully remove fillets to holding plate to cool.
3.  Add rice and a pinch of salt; cover, reduce heat and simmer until done, approx. 12 minutes.
4.  Meanwhile remove any detritus and bones from the fish, break into smaller portions and set aside.
5.  When ready to serve, return stock to a simmer making certain there is at least 6 cups liquid.
6.  In mixing bowl, whisk eggs and lemon juice; cornstarch if using. With a ladle, slowly whisk in 1-2 cups hot stock, to temper.
7.  Pour the tempered mixture into the simmering soup; gently stir in one circular direction until it thickens, do not boil. Adjust seasoning, add the fish to warm.
8.  Ladle into bowls and top with fresh herbs and more lemon. Serves 3-4

Tomato Sauce, Keto-style

When my daughter Shannon recently sent her favorite recipe for Five Minute Keto Pizza I was off and running.  She has long been a keto fan, and a terrific source of the latest information.

Ketogenics is not new; it was developed nearly 100 years ago at the Mayo Clinic as a treatment for epilepsy.  It has gained a huge following by those interested in weight loss or other heath issues such as high blood pressure, diabetes, epilepsy, and more. The keto diet focuses on the restriction of carb-rich foods, forcing the body to burn fats rather than carbohydrates, resulting in a metabolic state of ketosis.

Turns out the pizza crust is made with eggs for protein, psyllium husk for fiber, and Parmesan cheese. The blended mixture thickens to form a bread-like base when cooked in an oil lined skillet for a couple of minutes.  Rao’s Tomato Sauce and mozzarella cheese are spread on and quickly broiled. Its fast!

No doubt this is a good recipe for those seriously interested in adhering to the keto program as ingredients and quantities are set out to meet specific criteria. On the hunt for psyllium husk, I found a small vaguely marked bag in the back of a cupboard.  I wasn’t sure if it was a powder form or whole, and this matters when it comes to the gut and intestinal processes.  I set it aside for later.

I turned my attention to the sauce;  as a recipe developer this looked like a good challenge.  Unlike other fruit, tomatoes are considered keto-friendly, thanks to their low sugar net carb status. Who knows what Rao had in mind, but I could surely make a homemade tomato sauce that stays within keto boundaries—and acceptable to me.

I zeroed in on Bagna Cauda, the incredible “hot bath” from Italy’s Piedmont region traditionally made with copious amounts of olive oil plus butter. It’s simmered with loads of garlic and anchovies and served as a hot dip, fondue-style. I would begin there. For a win/win, I’d cut back on the oil and butter and substitute a heritage tomato such as a San Marzano or Oregon Spring.

There are so few ingredients in this sauce, each one is important.  It needs a fruity, full flavored extra virgin olive oil, at least 1 clove garlic per serving, and red pepper flakes for a hit of heat. The anchovies give a mysterious umami boost, any fishiness fades to the background, and it’s not too salty.  The tomatoes should be thin-skinned, meaty, low in acid, with few seeds. If using a canned San Marzano, look for one with no sugar added.

Simple Tomato-Bagna Cauda Sauce

As the bagna cauda base and tomatoes simmer away, they break down together and develop into a richly rounded sauce. Serve with chicken, fish, pasta, or pizza.

Tomato-Bagna Cauda Sauce

Ingredients
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
4-5 cloves garlic, mash and mince
½ tsp crushed red pepper flakes
8 anchovy fillets, dice
4-6 large heirloom tomatoes such as San Marzano, chop
salt and pepper
1-2 Tbsp fresh basil, torn

Instructions

  1. Heat a wide pot over medium-low, cook olive oil, garlic, red pepper flakes and anchovies. Slowly cook; mashing the anchovies until melted, smooth, and aromatic, 5-10 minutes.
  2. Add the tomatoes, partially cover set to a low simmer an additional 15-20 minutes, stirring occasionally until thick. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Remove from heat and stir in fresh basil. Makes 2 cups or more.

 

Five Minute Keto Pizza

Source: Ruled.me
Ingredients
2 large Eggs
2 tbsp. Parmesan Cheese
1 tbsp. Psyllium Husk Powder
1/2 tsp. Italian Seasoning
Salt to Taste
2 tsp. Frying Oil (I use bacon fat)
1.5 oz. Mozzarella Cheese
3 tbsp. Rao’s Tomato Sauce
1 tbsp. Freshly Chopped Basil

Directions

  1. In a bowl or container, use an immersion blender to mix together all pizza crust ingredients.
  2. Heat frying oil in a pan until hot, then spoon the mixture into the pan. Spread out into a cirlce.
  3. Once edges are browned, flip and cook for 30-60 seconds on the other side. Turn the stove off, and turn the broiler on.
  4. Add tomato sauce and cheese, then broil for 1-2 minutes or until cheese is bubbling.

This is a mouthful

I finally came up with a smoked salmon pizza that makes sense.  I love the idea but have been stuck on a Nova salmon approach for so long, I missed the obvious.

I had to get beyond the New York Nova style salmon,  the cold smoked process that we think of with bagels and lox. In my mind, this equated to adding salmon after baking the pizza to preserve its delicate smoked essence.

Well, of course. Here in the Pacific Northwest, hot smoked salmon is king. That smoking process delivers a bolder, firmer, deeply smoked salmon that’s unflinchingly good, whether hot or cold.

Once out of that box, a concept finally emerged,  a hot smoked salmon pizza with a buckwheat crust topped with toasted onion rings.

Smoked Salmon Pizza, Buckwheat Crust, Toasted Onion Rings

I’d retain some elements associated with traditional Nova, but for this pizza I’d veer off with a buckwheat infused crust.  I’d keep it simple with a light white sauce and bites of the hot smoked salmon graced with toasted sweet onion rings, capers, dill and rosemary.

There’s nothing complicated with any of these moving parts, but they do require a little advance work.

The buckwheat crust brings a toasted nuttiness which is lovely with the salmon.  I often use buckwheat in baking as an alternative to whole wheat and stock a small amount of the flour purchased in bulk for occasional use.

Buckwheat Pizza Dough

The crust is the usual pizza dough here, substituting ½ cup buckwheat flour for ½ cup AP, if no buckwheat go with wheat flour if you have it.  Since the dough only needs a few minutes to rise and pats out like a dream, I tend to continue on and prebake 2 medium crusts (or 1 large) because they freeze so well. This way, finishing a pizza can be done at my own speed rather than futzing with dough at the last minute.

For the onion, I opt for sliced sweet onion which is not caramelized in the true sense. Rather, the rings are kept as intact slices and laid onto a flat skillet with a light coating of butter and evoo. The slices are left to toast undisturbed, then flipped over and browned a little longer for a total of 10-12 minutes.

Toasted Onion Rings

The sauce is essentially a light Mornay enriched with a little Asiago cheese and a dollop of thick yogurt. It’s flour base provides stability for the yogurt— which holds beautifully and supplies a creamy bright edge rather than richness.

The pizza makes a superb dinner with salad. As you would expect, it is delish the next day for breakfast.

Smoked Salmon Pizza with Buckwheat Crust & Toasted Onion Rings

Ingredients
1-2 tsp evoo for pan
1 recipe Quick & Easy Pizza Dough
½ cup buckwheat flour (or whole wheat flour)
5 oz hot smoked salmon
Toasted Onion Rings
2 tsp butter
1 tsp olive oil
1 sweet onion, slices
Cheese Sauce
2 tsp butter
1 tsp olive oil
1 Tbsp AP flour
¼ tsp each salt, ⅛ tsp white pepper
2 Tbsp Asiago or Parmesan cheese
½ cup liquid: stock, water, etc.
½ cup milk
⅓ cup thick yogurt
Finish
½ cup Asiago or Parmesan, grated
¼ tsp or more coarse ground pepper
2 tsp capers, drain
2 tsp mixed fresh herbs: rosemary and dill

Directions

  1. Prepare dough, substitute ½ cup AP Flour with ½ buckwheat flour. Let rise 10-20 minutes. For medium pizza, use ½ recipe. For large pizza, use entire recipe.
  2. To toast onion, heat butter and olive oil over medium/low heat in wide skillet or on a griddle. Lay sliced rounds of onion into pan and toast until golden; carefully turn and toast second side, for a total of 10-15 minutes. Remove rings, cool on plate and set aside.
  3. For Cheese Sauce, in small saucepan heat butter and oil over medium/low heat. Add the flour, salt, and pepper and stir for 3-4 minutes. Add the cheese to melt and then stir in ½ cup liquid to dissolve flour, then add the milk, stirring to create a sauce. Stir in the yogurt, combine and heat briefly. Adjust seasoning and set aside.
  4. Shape ½ the dough with oiled hands onto oiled 9-10” pizza pan or pat out all for 1 large crust. It can be prebaked at this point, see dough recipe.
  5. Spread the dough with Cheese Sauce.
  6. Divide the salmon into chunks and arrange evenly oven the sauce. Drape with onion rings.
  7. Sprinkle with ground pepper, grated cheese, capers and herbs.
  8. Bake 425-450°F until bubbly and top begins to color, 18-25 minutes. Makes 1 medium/large pizza

Anytime Bagel

This really isn’t a recipe, it’s more a prompt for designing a Breakfast Bagel & Lox.  In its simplest form, you begin with a toasted bagel and smear it with a topping such as cream cheese, ricotta, even hummus; it’s crowned with a healthy portion of thin sliced smoked salmon—plus any other touches, such as capers, onion, & dill.

People have their preferences on smoked salmon. If you are from the east coast it’s probably Nova Scotian or Scandinavian cold smoked salmon. On the west coast, we are all over the board, with even hot smoked a consideration.  As far as I’m concerned it is all good, but I do love pristine Nova.

Creating your masterpiece, you could go two-sided and build up both bagel halves. I’m happy enjoying a really good onion bagel with the focus only on one side. That’s plenty, because I like adding an egg.

For the egg(s), lately I’ve taken to using an egg ring and either poaching or scrambling the egg. It’s good to butter the ring and the pan surface before dropping in the egg. Once it begins to set, add water to pan, cover with a lid, and steam until the white is set and yolk is pink and cooked to taste.

If you are a dyed-in-the-wool bagel lover, you know this is not just morning food. Rather, it falls into the breakfast-all-day category. It’s good anytime.

Breakfast Bagel & Lox

Ingredients
1 bagel, sliced in half
2 Tbsp or more cream cheese or fresh ricotta
1 sliced tomato
1-2 eggs, poached*, scrambled, or fried
1-2 ounces thin sliced smoked salmon
capers, red onion, fresh dill or other herbs, ground pepper, sliced tomato, radishes, fresh lemon

Instructions
Toast the bagel and spread both sides with cream cheese or ricotta.  Layer on slices of tomato and top with prepared egg*.
Drape with smoked salmon and add capers, red onions, fresh dill and sliced lemon. Serves 1 or more.
*For poached egg using egg ring, heat skillet to medium. Butter ring interior and pan surface. Drop egg into ring in pan and let it set briefly. Drizzle pan with a few tablespoons of water to create steam, cover with a lid 2-3 minutes, until white is set and yolk is pink, or cooked to taste.

Clambering for Clams

In Oregon we love our clams. In fact, steamers are so abundant here we clam for them year ‘round. Still, we keep the old rule of thumb in mind that shellfish is best eaten in the colder months, or those ending in R. That tends to cover most troublesome issues like spawning, red tides, warm water temperatures, and such.

Clammers are a regular site on the Oregon coast, in all weather—you’ll see us out there lining the beaches, optimistically digging for our dinner.  But living further inland, availability can be tricky and we can’t always pick up and dash to the coast for a fresh supply. Local markets do their best to meet demand, but they must also have contingency plans for when that’s not possible. One option is to bring in fresh meaty Venus clams from as far south as the Mexican Pacific coast.

Steamed clams and zucchini

Such was the case this past week when I thought I’d pick up 2 or 3 dozen fresh clams for an easy dinner. I was excited about trying a new twist on an old favorite steamer clam recipe. It’s a cleaver approach inspired by Lidia Bastianich’s Italian pairing of clams with zucchini.

Well heck, back at the store, there were no Oregon clams. Once again, I am confronted with a Plan B situation. Assured they were very fresh, and they looked quite good, I walked out with fat juicy Venus clams.

Clams and Zucchini Duo

Turns out, clams and zucchini are a brilliant combination. They are both mild, neither likes to be overcooked, and they compliment each other beautifully.  In this case, they take on eye-rolling proportions when the usual garlicky clam nectar is further embellished with sweet leeks and tomatoes. It’s all transformed into a charming meal as the clams and zucchini mingle and develop more character in this hearty broth.

It’s fast and fabulous. Within 20 minutes it’s ready—the clams have popped open and released their brininess into the pot. You could serve smaller portions with drinks. Or, as a lingering meal, ladle it all into wide bowls over crusty grilled bread. It’s lovely followed by a lush salad of blue cheese, apple and caramelized nuts with vanilla balsamic vinaigrette…

Steamed Clams and Zucchini

Inspired by Steamed Clams & Zucchini in Lidia’s Celebrate like an Italian by Lidia Bastianich

Ingredients
2 Tbsp olive oil
1 cup leeks, halve lengthwise, cut into ¼” slices or ½ onion, slice
3 cloves garlic, mash & mince
¼ tsp each dried oregano & red pepper flakes
1 cup white wine
1 cup crushed diced tomatoes
½ tsp sea salt
2 medium zucchini, cut into 1½”x ¼” strips
2-3 doz. or more butter or steamer clams
Finish:  ½ cup parsley, olive oil for final drizzle, toasted or grilled sliced baguette

Instructions

  1. In a large pot set over medium heat, pour in olive oil. When hot, add leeks and cook to soften @ 2 minutes.
  2. Stir in the garlic, oregano, and red pepper flakes to taste; , cover and cook 3 minutes. Add the white wine, cook down briefly; add the tomatoes and set to simmer. Cook 5 minutes reducing slightly to a thick broth and set aside.
  3. When ready to serve, bring vegetables up to a simmer and add the zucchini; cook 2-3 minutes, until softened.  Increase heat to a boil, add the clams and enough fresh water to barely cover.  Add lid, reduce heat slightly, and steam for 5-6 minutes until shells open.  Discard any that remain closed. Ladle into shallow bowls over toasted bread. Sprinkle with parsley, drizzle with more olive oil.  Pass more bread.  Serves 2 or more.

Fish du Jour

The other day I received a surprise de-briefing from my local fish monger.  As I obliquely scanned the beautifully displayed case and mumbled ‘red snapper’, he dropped everything, came around the counter, and pulled me aside.

With his hands pressed in front of him, he gazed off to the side and softly explained that Red Snapper is an excellent fish that originates in Atlantic waters and not widely available on the west coast.  He pointed out  that the misleading label Pacific Red Snapper is simply some sort of rockfish.  I guess I’m the last person to get the message.  That’s okay, in Tahiti ‘lagoon fish’ is always a delicious menu choice.  I happily headed out with 3 sweet smelling rockfish fillets.

Rockfish is a bass-like species, with a large mouth and spines on its head. Nothing like the red snapper I recall.  This large variety of fish can range in color from copper or red to blue, green or black, and can even sport colorful speckles or stripes.

Still, rockfish are mild flavored, highly marketed and very popular. With all that demand, some can be subject to overfishing and destructive practices. For a reliable resource, the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch provides plenty of recommendations to threatened and endangered species. They have both online information as well as an app available for download.

So here’s the genesis behind the red snapper/rockfish event. The secret to the success of this dish is the outstanding bread crumb marinade. Not only does it add flavor and moisture to the fish, the top crisps and gives an unexpected crunchiness when placed close to the heat.

Of course, any firm fleshed fish will work, including halibut, tuna, cod, shark…

Rockfish Fillets with Bread Crumb Marinade

Ingredients
1 pound firm fish fillets, rockfish/snapper, lingcod
⅓ cup chopped parsley
3 cloves garlic, crushed
2 anchovy fillets (or 1 tsp paste)
Few sprigs basil, chopped
½ cup dry bread crumbs
⅓ cup olive oil
2 Tbsp lemon juice
pinch red pepper flakes

Instructions

  1. Combine marinade by mixing together the parsley through red pepper flakes; it should be fairly moist.
  2. Line baking sheet with non-stick foil.  Massage marinade into whole fillets. Let stand for 1 hour at room temperature, or cover and refrigerate several hours.
  3. Using top heat source, broil @ 450°F for 8-10 minutes until flaky and crumbs are crisp and brown. Can be held a few minutes at lower heat.   Yield: 4 servings

What Sounds Good?

We all have our comfort foods.  When nothing else sounds good, we reach for familiar touchstones to soothe us.  They many not mean much to anyone else, but we have our favorites.

Years ago I wrote a heritage cookbook for my family with the odd title, What Sounds Good?  It was just that,  a crazy assortment of cherished recipes that were a regular part of our food repertoire when my daughters were growing up.  At our house, there was always a debate underway about what to eat for the next meal or upcoming food event. The discussion would typically include what sounds good?

Some of the recipes in What Sounds Good? were from my own childhood; some I picked up in my early days of cooking from friends and family. Some were regional, like Santa Maria Style Beans and Boston Clam Chowder. They still hold a place in my heart.

Yesterday was one of those days. It was cold and rainy and I was feeling the aftermath of the long Thanksgiving weekend.  I needed something that reached down and warmed my soul.  Of course, it was no further away than my pantry shelves.  I always have the makings for clam chowder tucked away somewhere.

I pulled out my soup pot and found a familiar rhythm. The smoky scent of bacon always perks me up. There’s nothing fussing here: some onion, potato, a bit of celery, a few herbs… In no time I had hearty soup cups ladled full of thick and creamy clam chowder.

Funny thing.  This morning I pulled out the recipe to take a look at it.  It has been a while since I made it, and without thinking, I made it as written in the cookbook, down to ingredients and quantities.  I guess somethings are too good to change.

Boston Clam Chowder

From What Sounds Good?

Ingredients
4-5 strips bacon, chopped
1/2 medium onion, chopped
2 stalks celery with leaves, chopped
2 medium red potatoes, skin on, diced
1 bay leaf
1/2 teaspoon thyme
1/8 teaspoon white pepper
2 cans chopped clams, 4-5 ounces each, liquid reserved
1 bottle clam juice, about 8 ounces
3 tablespoons flour
1/2 cup water
2 cups milk, of choice, including diluted condensed milk, if necessary
1/2 teaspoon salt, or to taste
Garnish:  chopped parsley, butter, or paprika, serve with oyster or pilot crackers

Instructions

  1. In a soup pot, sauté the bacon over medium heat until it begins to color. Drain off all but 1-2 tablespoon of the fat.
  2. Add the onion, and cook to soften, then add the celery and toss briefly. Add the potato, herbs, white pepper. clam liquids, and enough additional water to barely cover the potatoes. Bring to a boil, cover, reduce heat to a simmer, and cook until potatoes are tender, 10 to 15 minutes.
  3. Combine the flour and water into a slurry and slowly stir into the potato base and allow it to thicken.
  4. Stir in the milk and clams and heat well, but do not boil. Adjust seasoning.  Serve with garnish of choice.  Serves 4.

Snapper Puttanesca: Pungent and Powerful

Red snapper, or rock fish, is generally regarded as one of our most sustainable fish.  Good old snapper is also one of the most reliable fish in the marketplace, as it has a sweet, mild flavor and just enough texture to keep it from falling apart while cooking.  So versatile, it blends with other seafood in fish soups and stews, and it is assertive enough to stand up to full-flavored sauces such as the highly touted Puttanesca.

Snapper Puttanesca
Snapper Puttanesca

Known as an ultra-fast fix for pasta, our tomato-based sauce starts with the usual olive oil and garlic sauté.  A couple of anchovies are mashed about to melt and dissolve into the oil and virtually disappear, only to leave behind the mysterious essence that keeps us begging for more. Diced tomatoes are introduced for a quick simmer along with olives, capers, and as much hot red pepper flakes as you can bear. Point it up with a bit of lemon, if you like.

The snapper fillets are added to the pan and it’s all tucked into the oven for a quick braise—just enough time to set the table, find salad, and pour your favorite beverage. 

Braised Red Snapper Puttanesca

Inspired by Fine Cooking, Make It Tonight

Ingredients
4 – 5 oz Red Snapper or Black Sea Bass fillets ( about 3/4″ thick)
salt and pepper

Puttanesca Sauce
3 tablespoons olive oil, divided
3 cloves garlic
2 anchovy fillets, minced
2 – 14 oz canned diced tomatoes
3 ounces Kalamata olive, pitted, halved lengthwise (1/2 cup)
1 teaspoon oregano or ½ teaspoon dried oregano
1 tablespoon capers, rinsed
1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes, or to taste
1 lemon

Directions

  1. Preheat oven to 325 degrees.  Season fish with salt and pepper, and drizzle with lemon juice.
  2. For sauce:  In 12″ ovenproof skillet with cover, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil over medium low heat.  Add the garlic, cooking to soften @ 1 minute. Add the anchovies, pressing and stirring to dissolve.
  3. Add tomatoes and liquid, olives, oregano, capers, and pepper flakes.  Bring to brisk simmer, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes are tender and sauce has thickened, @ 8 minutes.
  4. Nestle the fish in the sauce, spoon some over the fish.  Drizzle with remaining olive oil; cover and braise until almost cooked through, 10-15 minutes.
  5. Transfer to serving bowls. If liquid remains quickly reduce sauce; stir in 1-2 teaspoons lemon juice and spoon over the fish.  Serves 4

Jerk Pork: it’s grill time!

It’s summertime and the living is stunningly easy here on the homestead.  Especially now that I have finally located another folding grill!  What was once called the Pyromid has resurfaced under the new name of EcoQue, and I couldn’t be happier.  This unique stainless steel grill not only folds neatly into its own 2” thick tote for easy storage, it produces temperatures close to 900 degrees on its 12” surface with only 9 charcoal briquettes.

EcoQue Portable Grill
EcoQue Portable Grill

I apologize, I did not intend the post to become a sales pitch for this adorable grill, but I guess I can’t help myself. I am utterly thrilled that it hasn’t completely disappeared!  With the new grill at hand, my first order of business was to grill off a little celebratory jerk pork.

Jerk Pork
Jerk Pork

This popular Bahamian marinade makes anything taste better.  It’s wonderful hot off the grill on chicken, fish, beef, or pork and it is even better the next day. Jerk meats remain so moist and flavorful they are ideal for picnics and travel. Today, I’m cooking a thick chunk of pork but 3 to 4 pounds of chicken or beef will work just as well.

Jerk Pork, Chicken, or Beef

Ingredients
3 – 4 lb.  pork, chicken or beef ribs
Jerk Marinade
1 teaspoon allspice
1/2 teaspoon each nutmeg and cinnamon
3 tablespoons fresh thyme
1/2 cup green onions, chop
1 clove garlic, minced
4 scotch bonnet chiles, or jalapeno peppers, seed
1/2 cup white vinegar
1/4 cup soy sauce
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 teaspoons salt

Directions

  1. For marinade: place all ingredients in blender and puree for 2 minutes.
  2. Massage the meat well with the marinade and marinate several house or overnight.  Any extra marinade can be reserved for dipping if not used for brushing the meat on the grill.
  3. Preheat the grill to medium-low heat.  Drain and pat the meat dry.  Brush the grill with oil.  Grill, turning and brushing with marinade as needed until nicely browned all over and pork reaches an internal temperature of 160°, beef is between 145-160°, and chicken reaches 165°.