When summer arrives and the heat sets in, my appetite changes. I shift to lighter, easier meals—foods that perk up an often peckish appetite.
I’ve always been a big fan of the Chinese method of poaching chicken. It results in a beautiful clear broth, utterly pristine flavors, and meat that is succulent and tender. Here’s an outstanding riff on that approach which requires very little actual cooking time—much relies on the broth’s residual heat to do the work. It’s an ideal technique for summertime heatwaves.
The idea comes from Wendy Kiang-Spray’s lovely cookbook The Chinese Kitchen Garden. A whole chicken (here I’ve used the equivalent, 2 Cornish game hens) is dry rubbed with salt, stuffed with whole star anise, and refrigerated for 1- 3 days. When ready to launch, it’s brought to room temperature before lowering into to a pot of simmering water and cooked uncovered for a mere 10 minutes. Then, it’s covered and allowed to steep in the hot broth’s residual heat for 45 minutes. The chicken is fast cooled in an ice water bath for 15 minutes and patted dry.
The resulting broth is bewitchingly addictive: the star anise flavor is present, but not overtly so. It’s a lovely liquid for cooking rice, grains, vegetables, etc. For a soup stock, I opted to keep it light and not overwhelm it with too many heavy flavors.
A few slices of ginger, some garlic, and a dash of soy sauce hit the right balance for a soba noodle soup with chicken and a few fresh vegetables.
The anise chicken has happily starred in a variety of applications. When pressed, I have whipped up a simple Asian dipping sauce, but Wendy also suggests a Ginger-Onion Garlic Oil, also included because it is such a nice touch.
Of my favorite uses, I remain a big fan of an easy Asian Chicken Salad served with plenty of sesame crepes (yum—coming soon!) along with spoonfuls of hoisin sauce for stuffing/rolling purposes. Welcome to summer 2017, rolling out with record 101° heat.
Anise Poached Chicken
Inspired by The Chinese Kitchen Garden by Wendy Kiang-Spray
3 pound whole chicken
2 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon coarse salt
20 pieces whole star anise
Ginger-Onion/Garlic Oil (optional)
2” section ginger, peel and slice
3-4 garlic whistles or 3 “bunching onions” (a leek-like variety), cut in 2” lengths
¼ cup oil
- Rinse and pat dry chicken. Rub inside and out with 2 tablespoons coarse salt. Place the star anise in the cavity. Place in zip lock and refrigerate 1-3 days.
- Remove chicken and bring to room temperature (about 1 hour ahead).
- Fill pot with enough water to cover chicken and bring to a boil. Lower anise-filled chicken into pot. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to medium low. Simmer chicken uncovered 10 minutes. Skim residue off top of water. Turn off heat and cover with tight fitting lid. Allow to steep undisturbed for another 45 minutes, until chicken is cooked through. Meanwhile make Ginger and Onion Oil. Crush ginger and onions with mortar and pestle or pulse in food processor. Place the paste in heatproof bowl and add 1 tsp salt. Heat the oil until hot. Carefully pour the hot oil over the ginger and onion mixture.
- When chicken is cooked through, remove from pot, reserving pot liquid for another purpose: cooking rice or other grain, etc. Lower chicken into an ice water bath to quickly stop the cooking process. In about 15 minutes when cooled, remove and pat dry.
- Chop into pieces and serve with a drizzle of ginger-onion oil. Nice over steamed white rice or other. Serves 4-6.