About the birds and the bees

This wouldn’t be much of a food blog if I didn’t give a mention to the UN’s stark IPBES report released today linking human behavior to nature’s crisis threatening extinction of 1 million plants and animal species—within the next few decades.

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Most of this activity has ramped up within the last 50 years with the doubling of the world’s population since 1970.  Food supply and unbridled consumption seem to be driving this impact on nature.

This is not new, but the totality of it all looming large within our children’s lifetimes’ forecasts crises of staggering proportions. When I was studying sustainability in college ten years ago there were those advocating a shift away from an economic model based on a country’s GDP, consumption, and wealth, to one based on a quality of life index.  They theorized it to be a more holistic indicator of livability for of an entire population, not just a few.

That was a highly unrealistic notion. We are valued as consumers and as such, we seem incapable of reigning in our appetites or addressing real issues like soil degradation, waste accumulation, plastic pollution, water pollution and land use geared toward the elimination of forests.  It’s not our problem, let someone else deal with it.  Until you come face-to-face with it.

It’s complicated, but the report urges that we all do what we can and begin by demanding responsible political action. Climate change is mentioned; it’s woven throughout their findings. But it’s the sum consequences ahead that we are not prepared for. This crisis is happening so rapidly that nature has not been able to adapt. Once our fragile food web is sufficiently disrupted there goes the food supply.  When bees are unable to pollinate and plants are barren, there is no fruit.

Our natural environment is undergoing unprecedented stress. The report recommends that we begin to recognize the severity of this crisis (not dismiss it as fake news) and make conscious changes and choices. To make a difference they say, it will require a “transformative change”—a collective reality check if you like. What’s the likelihood of that happening?

Update: Chicken and Vegetable Stocks

In the midst of writing the earlier Ramen Soup post, I did a quick site search on stock making.  If it’s here, it isn’t very searchable.  My apologies.  Today, I’m posting information on making both a handy chicken stock and an easy vegetable stock.  (We’ll leave beef, fish and other stocks for another round.)

onions
Onion, stock backbone

A few notes on stock making …

Lighter flavored (vegetable or fish) stock takes less time to prepare than poultry or meat stocks.

As a rule, the more flavorful the stock the more complex the final dish.   Roasted vegetables enhance overall stock quality.

Consider the final outcome. If you have a particular meal in mind, add or delete vegetables, herbs, and other flavorings to further enhance—such as ginger for Asian, cumin or oregano for Mexican, or smoked paprika for Spanish.

soon to be stock
soon to be stock

I stockpile bones in the freezer in a zip lock bag, and brew up a pot when I have a good supply.

Stocks with larger bones take longer cooking time.

For efficiency, begin with bones previously roasted or cooked; grilling carries big flavor.

Use caution when adding salt; too much can ruin a well executed soup, sauce, or entree. It can always be added later.

Vegetable Stock

Ingredients
10 cups cold water
1 large onion, cut up – peels are ok
2 cloves garlic, smash and cut up – peels are ok
Other vegetables on hand cut into large chop:  2 carrots, 2 ribs celery with leaves, handful fresh or a few dried mushrooms
Couple sprigs of thyme, or 1 tsp dried
Handful of parsley, if available
1 bay leaf
10 whole peppercorns
Salt to taste

Directions

  1. Place water in large pot over high heat.
  2. Wash and chop all vegetables; add items as they area chopped.
  3. Bring to a boil, partially cover, reduce heat and simmer for 45 minutes.  Salt to taste.
  4. Strain and use, or let cool, chill, or freeze.  Makes about 2 quarts stock.

Chicken Stock

Save carcasses from baked, roasted or grilled chicken and turkey.  Store any salvaged bones in a zip-lock bag or smaller containers in freezer for future use.

Ingredients
10 cups cold water
1 medium onion cut up – peels are ok
2 carrots cut up – peels are ok
2 cloves garlic, smash and cup up – peels are ok
1 celery rib including leaves, cut up
2 – 3 lbs chicken or turkey parts (cooked or uncooked) backs, necks, bones, wings, carcasses etc.
Handful of parsley, if available
Couple of sprigs thyme, or 1 tsp dried
1 bay leaf
10 whole peppercorns
Salt to taste

Directions

  1. Wash all vegetables, cut into large pieces and place in soup pot.  Break or cup up chicken carcass or parts into manageable pieces and add to pot.  Add cold water and bring to a boil.
  2. When it reaches a boil, skim off any foam and impurities that may have come to the surface.  Add the herbs and peppercorns.  Reduce heat, lightly cover, and simmer 1 hour or longer.  Add water as needed to cover.
  3. Strain through a fine sieve, salt to taste, and use as needed; or allow stock to cool.  Chill and remove any fat from the surface.

Covered stock will last up to 1 week in the refrigerator or freeze up to 1 month.  Makes about 2 quarts.

Code Red: Chocolate Torte

cake cutting redluxYes, the picture says it all.

Instead of Happy Birthday, there should be a warning stamped on the top of this cake:  Hazard to One’s Health.  Standard symptoms:  lightheaded, dizzy, blurred vision (and not from the wine).

I started out this month working diligently on genoise and other cakes with the specific goal of creating a chocolate cake for my daughter’s birthday, and this is where it brought me.  In fact, I was not going to even blog about it, because I would not recommend making this cake; it is too deadly.  But at my daughter’s urging, I am giving it a mention.

Irresistible, mercilessly entertaining, menacing…” certainly apply here.  In fact, these descriptive were picked from the cover of a book that my daughter just loaned me:  Gone Girl by Gillian Flynn, a popular head-spinning thriller.  I didn’t mean to scare everyone at my daughter’s dinner, but this cake really did the trick.

So Happy Birthday, ChyAnn, your mother really does love you.

Choc Bday cakeThe recipe follows with the best directions I can give.  Standard warnings prevail.

Chocolate-Almond Raspberry Torte

Inspired by America’s Test Kitchen.

Ingredients

  • 8 oz bittersweet chocolate, chopped
  • 12 Tbsp unsalted butter, cut into pieces
  • 1 -1/2 tsp vanilla extract or paste
  • ½ tsp almond extract
  • ½ tsp instant espresso powder
  • 4 oz almond meal
  • ¼ cup all purpose flour
  • ½ tsp salt
  • 5 large eggs
  • ¾ cups sugar
  • Raspberry Syrup
  • Chocolate Ganache (divided)
  • 12 fresh raspberries

Directions

  1. Line 2 – 9” or 2 to  3 – 8” cake pans with parchment (see below).  Preheat oven to 325 degrees.
  2.  Melt the chocolate and butter in large heat proof bowl over simmer water, stir until smooth. Allow to cool for 30 minutes and stir in vanilla and almond extracts and espresso powder.
  3. Process almond meal until fine in food processor; add flour and salt and pulse to combine. Transfer to medium bowl.
  4. In bowl of mixer, beat the eggs to combine then add the sugar and beat until thick and light, about 3 minutes.
  5. Gently fold the eggs into chocolate mixture until nearly blended; sprinkle in the almond-flour mixture and gently combine.
  6. Divide the batter into pans and smooth with spatula. Bake until center is firm when pressed and toothpick inserted comes out with a few moist crumbs, 14 to 16 minutes.  Transfer to wire rack and cool in pan about 30 minutes.  Run sharp knife around edge to loosen cake and turn out on to cake boards, right side up.

Note:  prepare the raspberry syrup and the ganache.  The filling will be whipped, the glaze is the same recipe, but will be poured over the cake and sides to finish.  The ratio of chocolate and cream  is 1:1. It can be made in one large batch if making the same day.

If using 8 inch cake pans, fill 2 pans evenly, or fill one pan with twice as much as the other and adjust the baking time with a difference of 5 minutes or longer.  You will slice this one in half to make 3 layers.  (this is dumb, but 3 layers does make a nice, albeit rich, torte)

Raspberry Syrup

  • 12 ounces fresh raspberries
  • ½ cup water
  • Sugar, approximate 1 cup
  1.  Combine raspberries, smash with a fork or potato masher in small pan, and bring to a boil. Simmer until soft and juicy, 3 to 4 minutes.  Strain through a fine sieve.
  2. Rinse out the pan; measure the raspberry liquid and return it to the pan with an equal amount of sugar. Simmer until slight thickened, 1 to 2 minutes.  Add 1/3 cup Chambord, rum, or brandy and simmer briefly.  Strain mixture again, removing any foam as well.  Pour into a clean container to cool and set aside.

Chocolate Ganache  divided, for filling and for glaze

Filling for 3- 8 or 2-9” layers

  • 5 oz good quality bittersweet chocolate (60% or more cacoa butter), chopped in food processor
  • ½ cup plus 1 Tbsp heavy whipping cream
  1.  Chop the chocolate and place in a bowl. Heat the cream to a simmer; do not boil. (In microwave, about 40 seconds to 1 minute. )  Pour the cream over the chocolate and let is set briefly, for a minute or two.  Gently stir with a fork to melt the chocolate and it is silky smooth.  Let stand to cool, about 30 minutes.
  2. To lighten the filling, beat with a hand mixer for 1 to 3 minutes, depending on the volume desired.

Finishing Glaze

  • 8 oz good quality bittersweet chocolate 960% or more cacoa butter), chopped in food processor
  • ¾ cup heavy whipping cream
  • 2 Tbsp butter (optional, for sheen)
  1.  Chop the chocolate and place in a bowl. Heat the cream to a simmer; do not boil. (In microwave, about 1 minute.)
  2. Pour the cream over the chocolate and let is set briefly, for a minute or two. Gently stir with a fork to melt the chocolate and it is silky smooth.

To assemble the torte

  1. If cutting one of the layers in half, use a long serrated knife to slice into 2 equal layers. Have an 8`springform pan ready as a mold to hold the torte in place.
  2. Brush the cut surface of one of the layers evenly with a light coating of syrup. Spread it evenly with about ½ of the whipped ganache filling, then place it in the springform pan, filling side up.
  3. Repeat with second layer, using cut side to coat with syrup and then with chocolate filling and place it in mold. Brush the third layer keeping the bottom of the layer to the top of the cake and coat the cut side with syrup.  Place it in the springform with the bottom side up.
  4. Cover the cake and chill well; up to 24 hours.
  5. To finish to the torte. Unmold the cake and brush any loose crumbs off the exterior of the cake.  Coat the cake lightly with ganache using an offset spatula or knife to seal both top and sides.  Chill to set, about 5 minutes.
  6. Place cake on wire rack and crumb coat the cake by spreading top and sides with a thin layer of the ganache glaze to cover. Let set in fridge 15 minutes.  Meanwhile, keep the ganache over warm water, stirring occasionally to keep it from thickening too much.
  7. For final glaze, pour some of the ganache into center of the cake, using offset spatula, spread with broad strokes so that residue will to run down the sides; spread to evenly coat any uneven spots.
  8. Add a circle of fresh raspberries around the outside edge of the torte. Chill for 30 minutes or several hours before serving.  If made ahead, allow to come to room temperature for 30 minutes before serving.  Serves 10 to 12