Cranberries, meet Apples

Ah beautiful cranberries,  ruby red jewels of the holiday season…

Courtesy Oregon Cranberry Growers Assn.

It’s too bad that cranberries tend to receive little more than a cursory nod when cast in their limited role as a wobbly sauce —several circles down from the holiday turkey.  If real lucky, they might be hung out to dry on a string draped around the Christmas tree.

I decided to give cranberries a chance, this time as a co-star with another seasonal favorite, the Honeycrisp apple (or any other sweet-crisp variety).  Anyone who has played with cranberries knows they can be quirky.  They are hard, tart, and when cooked have their own thickening power.  On the other hand, Honeycrisp apples are full of flavor, crisp, bright and juicy—they could go a long way to elevating cranberries beyond their obscure part as a bit player.

This beautiful Crostata if very similar to the Stone Fruit Galette in my Counter Cuisine cookbook.  If you have taken a look, you know that it is a hand formed pie mounded with fresh fruit. It also bakes in about 30 minutes.

Apple Cranberry Crostata

The trick here is to cook the apples and cranberries just long enough to soften them but still retain their shape and unique attributes.

Apples and near popping Cranberries

The best way to pull this off is to briefly cook the filling ahead. The hand formed pastry can be prepped ahead, too. Then, it’s a simple matter of assembling it all and baking the crostata off until bubbly and golden brown.

A little pastry with your fruit

The result: a crisp pastry bundle wrapped around a tender-fresh filling near bursting with holiday flavors.

Apple Cranberry Crostata

Ingredients
1 recipe Hand Formed Pastry (below)
1 Tbsp butter
2-3 Honeycrisp or other apples, peel, core, cut into ½” slice or chunks, @ 3 cups
1 tsp cinnamon, ½ tsp nutmeg
3 Tbsp granulated sugar
2 Tbsp brown sugar
1 orange:  1 Tbsp juice, 2 tsp zest
1 Tbsp flour
¾ to 1 cup raw cranberries
Egg wash: 1 egg yolk + 1 tsp water, 1 Tbsp granulated sugar
Glaze: 1 Tbsp melted and strained marmalade (optional)

Instructions

  1. Prepare pastry and chill at least 30 minutes, up to 2 days.
  2. For filling, heat butter in wide pan over medium. Toss in apples to coat, add the spices and sugars to melt. Add the orange zest and juice, cook 1 minute.
    Remove from heat, sprinkle flour over the fruit and gently stir to combine all. Return to medium heat and bring to a simmer. Add the cranberries, lower heat and cook 2-3 minutes, until thick and fruit just begins to soften. Remove and cool well, 1- 2 hours. Filling can be chilled and brought to room temperature before proceeding.
  3. To assemble, roll out pastry on floured parchment into 12” free formed round. Set pastry and parchment on baking sheet.
    Mound prepared filling onto pastry with slotted spoon, higher in center. Allow 2” border to fold over fruit and contain it. Brush pastry with egg wash and sprinkle with granulated sugar.
  4. Bake 375-400°F for 25-35 minutes, until filling is bubbly and pastry is golden brown. If desired, brush fruit top lightly with marmalade glaze for extra shine. Cool well. Slice and serve with vanilla ice cream. Serves 4 to 6
Hand-Formed Pastry

3  Tbsp each butter and vegetable shortening spread ½” thick, freeze 15 mins
1 cup AP flour
½ tsp salt
3-4 Tbsp ice water

Whisk flour and salt in med bowl. Dice the cold shortening and butter into ½ cubes and cut into flour with 2 knives or a pastry blender, until pieces are the size of small peas.
Add 3 Tbsp ice water and stir with a fork until the flour is moist and begins to hold together. Add a few more drops of ice water into bottom of bowl if needed. Gather up dough and gently shape into a ball and flatten into a disk. Roll out as needed or wrap each in plastic wrap. Chill up to 2 days.

All things Apple: Why the McIntosh is still the Gold Standard

Apple season is underway in the Willamette Valley, which makes it an apple lover’s paradise.  For those bent on exploring new horizons, the movement toward recovering long forgotten heritage varieties is reintroducing a new realm of excellent choices.  Like grape selection in wine making, apples have their own profiles and attributes. McIntosh Art Depending on your inclination, it seems there is a specific apple out there for every need.

After sampling a range of local apples recently, I came away with a far deeper appreciation for the nuances that make each variety unique.  Some are great for baking while others are delicious raw or out of hand.  Tart, crisp, juicy, doesn’t even begin to define their best qualities.

With all this activity, I’m caught up eating my share of different apples.  But when it came to considering a choice for a baked apple project recently, I went with the granddaddy of them all, the McIntosh. It has been a long time since I’ve played with them, and with my new perspective, I’ve gained an even deeper appreciation.

The McIntosh is referred to as a cultivar, which means that it has been used to create newer varieties like Golden and Red Delicious, the Jonathan, Cortland, and Empire. All of these have been a favorite of mine at one time or another.  No wonder the McIntosh is considered the gold standard.

McIntosh
McIntosh

When it comes to the gold standard, Apple Inc. liked the name so much for their personal computer line they misspelled it to Macintosh to not complete with another trademark at the time using the McIntosh name.

Just like Steve Jobs’ aesthetics for his Apple, visually the McIntosh is sexy.  Round and voluptuous, its color is often a deep vibrant red layered on bright, near chartreuse-green.  A bite into a McIntosh gives you plenty of crunch and juiciness, and there’s a well balanced sweet to tart ratio with no huge acid hit in the mouth, plus a delightful spiciness that I found intriguing. The flesh is creamy white―it’s a sexy piece of beauty.  Some would say the skin is thicker than most; but I certainly wouldn’t toss it.  There’s plenty of apple flavor (and nutrition) in the skin, plus it offers a lovely contrast to the flesh for an overall pleasant mouth feel.

Which makes the McIntosh perfect for baked apples.

Baked AppleAbout this time, I discovered Tall Clover Farm, a delightfully written blog/website by Tom Conway, who is also cultivating unique apple varieties on Vashon Island, off-shore Seattle. He offers an idea for baked apples, along similar lines as I was mulling over.

Rather than a sugar-and-spice filling, he uses a dialed-down mixture of toasted nuts, dried fruit, all bound together with a bit marmalade or other jam. A light dusting of cinnamon-sugar is sprinkled over the top to enhance the apple’s spiciness, along with a dab of butter and a quick drizzle of syrup for added moisture. A pastry round finishes it all, adding a jaunty touch of crunch and charm.  Brilliant, just enough to enhance the apple and not detract from its essential beauty.

For my little toppers, I made a small amount of pastry (half batch), using a standard method and added a bit of egg yolk and a dash of sugar for richness.  The rest of the yolk was combined with milk and brushed on top of the pastry before baking. Later, in my excitement I realized I forgot to vent the toppers to release unnecessary moisture ―as you would with a top pie crust.  Certainly not critical, but a nice touch.

Baked Apple with Pie Crust Topper

Inspired by Apple Dumplings with Pie Crust Caps, @ Tall Clover Farm by Tom Conway

Ingredients
4 McIntosh apples, core removed, skin peeled about half way down
Half recipe standard pie crust
Filling:
1/3 cup walnuts, toasted
1/3 cup golden raisins
2 Tbsp marmalade or jam of choice
Cinnamon-Sugar:
2 Tbsp granulated sugar
½ tsp cinnamon

1 Tbsp butter, divided
¼ cup honey, agave, maple syrup, divided

Method

  1. Prepare the pastry, divide in 4 small disks and let it chill.
  2. For filling, combine ingredients and set aside.  In a small bowl combine the cinnamon-sugar.
  3. For apple prep:  cut off the top of each evenly, core each apple, retaining the bottom of each.  Peel half way down; for clean edge, score the apple and remove ragged excess to that point.
  4. Preheat oven to 375 degrees.  Brush pie plate with butter and set aside.
  5. Distribute filling evenly in the centers of the 4 apples. Dot the filling lightly with butter and drizzle apples with honey or agave and sprinkle tops with half of the cinnamon-sugar.
  6. On floured work surface, roll out the pastry into 4 rounds and cut with fluted biscuit cutter. Make a decorative cut-out or cut slits in each for venting. Place one on top of each apple.
  7. Brush each with egg wash of a bit of egg yolk and milk or water.  Sprinkle with cinnamon-sugar (optional).   Place apples in baking dish, add about ½ cup water along with the remainder of the butter and honey.
  8. Bake at 375 degrees for 30 minutes, remove and baste apple flesh with baking liquid.  Return to oven, reduce heat to 350 degrees and bake 25-30 minutes longer, basting 2 or 3 times more. Bake until crusts are golden brown and apples are tender when pierced.  Serve warm with ice cream or custard sauce Yield: 4.

Reason to Celebrate

We have a real glut of apples happening at my local market―a most certain nod that the winds of fall are fast approaching. Meanwhile, leaves begin to display golden shades and shadows stretch longer in the afternoon sun, it’s as if nature is taking one long breath.  I have mixed feelings about this change of seasons:  I’m both sad that summer is all but gone, yet excited for the approaching harvest.

Living closer to the land again, I’m regaining my awareness and connection with the natural life cycle. Peaches and nectarines replace summer berries now, while apple varieties like Jonathon, honey crisp, gala, and Fuji steadily gain prominence.  Absolutely nothing compares to eating produce at its peak. Freshly picked for consumption means it hasn’t been sitting in a cooler for months making its way to my grocery store.

Fuji apples
Fuji apples

I recently bought a few early Fuji apples to make a nice dessert for friends, and my favorite French Apple Torte came to mind.  I have been making it for so long that I have lost the original documentation. There’s nothing terribly unique about it―your normal baking staples and a few sweet, crisp apples wrapped in a moist custard-like batter. Just know that it is all about the apples.

The batter only requires a few stirs with a whisk or large spoon. The apples are added and it is unceremoniously dumped into a baking dish.  While in the oven, a simple topping is quickly put together and poured over the semi-baked torte. It continues to bake until fully set and the edges of the apples caramelize.Apple Torte

This little beauty hits all the right notes.  It’s bursting with bright nuances from fresh sweet apples and further enhanced by the rich egginess of the crazy-custard-like batter that binds it all together. The caramel topping’s buttery sweetness and texture becomes the perfect counterpoint to the clean apple flavors.

Apple Torte Slice (1)Elegant in taste and appearance, it is a dessert suitable for just about any occasion.  Consider it as the finish to a special dinner, an impromptu treat for drop-in company, or perhaps the best reason of all, to celebrate the apple harvest.  Do enjoy it warm from the oven with ice cream or a custard sauce.

French Apple Torte

Ingredients
1/2     cup all-purpose flour
1/3     cup sugar
1        Tbsp baking powder
1/8     tsp salt
1/2     tsp vanilla extract
2        eggs, lightly beaten
2        Tbsp olive oil
1/3     cup milk
4        baking apples such Braeburn, Rome, Fuji, etc, peel, core, thick slices (about 2 pounds)
Topping
3      Tbsp butter, melted
1/3   cup sugar
1       egg, lightly beaten
 
Method

  1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Butter a 9″ springform pan or ovenproof quiche dish and set aside.
  2. In large bowl combine flour through salt and blend well.
  3. In small bowl combine vanilla through milk and blend well.  Add liquid to dry and stir until well blended.  Add the apples and stir to thoroughly coat with batter.  Spoon into pan and bake until firm and golden, about 25 minutes.
  4. Meanwhile prepare topping by combining butter, sugar and egg in small bowl.  Stir to blend, and set aside.
  5. Remove torte from oven and pour the topping mixture over it.  Return to the oven and bake until top is deep golden brown and quite firm when pressed, about 10 minutes.
  6. Remove to rack and cool from 10 minutes.  Run knife around edge and remove sides or serve from dish at room temperature or warmed served with vanilla ice cream or custard sauce.  Serves 6 to 8.