Time for Reflection and Cheese Madeleines

It’s the weekend following Thanksgiving, and time for turkey soup. This year’s version includes shallot, garlic, assorted veggies, farro, and of course turkey. Wholesome and light, the perfect prescription for over indulgence.

Such a moderate and sensible approach wasn’t destined to last long. It only took a moment of reflection, also left-over from Thanksgiving, to realize the soup would need something else to go along with it. From there, it didn’t take long to zero in on one of my old favorites, something that I haven’t had a chance to make for a while.

In no time, I was deep in cheese madeleine territory. While the soup burbled away, I pulled out my recipe and got going. I have had a soft spot in my heart for the French shell-shaped cookie ever since I eyed a barely used madeleine baking tin at a garage sale—long before their silicone counterpart hit the marketplace.madeleine tin
They only take a few minutes to prepare and about the same amount of time to bake. Since the original cookie often relies on an egg-sugar emulsion, I have taken some liberties with the cheese low-sugar version, but they are still kissed with butter.madeleine in shell
Sweet or savory, there’s something fleeting and magical about these light well-constructed pillows of bliss. Soft but crispy, solid but ethereal, mild but elusively rich… I’m beginning to rant like Proust.

Madeleines and Turkey Soup

Madeleines and Turkey Soup

What wouldn’t taste better with a few of these?

Cheese Madeleines

Lacking madeleine baking molds, substitute mini muffin pans or tiny tartlet molds.

¼ cup semolina flour or fine polenta, sifted
½ cup cake flour
2 tsp. baking powder
¼ tsp. salt
2 tsp. sugar
1 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese
pinch nutmeg
1 egg, room temperature
½ cup milk, room temperature
1 tbsp. melted butter

1 – 2 tbsp. melted butter for molds

  1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Spray madeleine molds with baking spray and then brush lightly with melted butter.
  2. Sift dry ingredients, whisk to blend, and toss in the cheese and nutmeg to thoroughly coat.
  3. In a medium bowl whisk the egg well and slowly whisk in the milk. Gently stir in the dry ingredients combining well; slowly stir in the butter until it is all incorporated.
  4. Spoon tablespoonfuls of the batter into molds, about ¾’s full, and bake 12 minutes or until they begin to brown. Using tip of knife, release from mold and turn it over. Allow to cool briefly before moving to rack to cool. Wipe out molds, brush again lightly with butter, and repeat. Yield: 10 to 12 large madeleines.


September will forever remind me of Hatch Pepper season in New Mexico and Texas.  Much like the nostril tingling smell of burning leaves in the fall, the air becomes heady with the nostalgic scent of roasting chile peppers.

I felt the need to honor the season by roasting my own poblano peppers―not quite the same as Hatch peppers, but good enough.  I’ve also written here about my endless tinkering with cheese stuffed peppers and my obsession with new variations on chile rellenos―something beyond egg batter dipped and fried.

Since we have a growing Latino community here, I was thrilled to find a market with a cheese counter selling bunches of long thick strands of Oaxacan quesillo.  The cheese is quite similar to Italian string cheese, which would also work using multiple strands. Cut into appropriate lengths, the widths handily fit into a roasted chile.

Today’s version is a take on the charming British Toad-in-a- Hole, or sausage encased in Yorkshire pudding.Hole chile cheese1 I’ve always had a special weakness for these babies, but balk at their soufflé-like tendency to sadly deflate into nothingness.

I remedied that situation and now have a puffed and perky pepper oozing with melting cheese. It cuts into tidy wedges; no muss, no fuss. Chile Cheese Salsa Hole

Not exactly Latino influenced, but still, it is quite tasty with fresh homemade salsa.  Of course, what isn’t more tasty with salsa?

Chile Cheese in a Hole


1 Tbsp olive oil, divided
1 onion, peeled and sliced
6 poblano or pasillo peppers, charred, skinned, and seeded
3/4 lb. Oaxacan or string cheese

3/4 cup flour
1/4 tsp salt
3 eggs lightly beaten
3/4 cup milk
1 cup grated cheddar cheese, divided


  1. Preheat oven to 450 degrees.
  2. Sear the chiles over a hot flame or broiler until blistered on all sides. Place in plastic bag to loosen skin.  When cool, peel the skin away.  Make a slit in the side of each and remove the stems and seeds, keeping them as whole and intact as possible.  Set aside.
  3. Slice the cheese into 6 – 2 ½” lengths and wrap the peppers around the cheese fingers.
    Rub a pie plate or other similar ovenproof dish with part of the remaining olive oil.  Add the sliced onion, drizzle with remaining oil and distribute the slices evenly in dish.  Bake in 450 degree oven for 10-15 minutes until they begin to take on color
  4. .Meanwhile prepare the batter:  combine the flour and salt in a medium bowl and make a well in the center.  Combine the beaten eggs and milk and pour into the flour mixture, beat until well blended.  Fold in half of the shredded cheese.
    Remove the onion from the oven and set the peppers into the dish like spokes in a wheel, wide ends out, with onions between the chiles.  While the dish is still hot, quickly pour in the egg batter and return to oven; it will not completely cover the chiles.
  5. Reduce heat to 425 degrees and bake until it is puffy, about 15 minutes.  Remove and sprinkle the remaining cheese over the top.  Return to oven and bake another 10 minutes,, until it is inflated, the cheese melts, and the top is firmly set and it is taking on color; a total of 20- 25 minutes.
  6. Serve immediately, while fully raised.  It will deflate somewhat but will remain puffy.  It is also good served at room temperature.  Serves 4 or more.

The Good Egg

Lately I’vEgge been brushing up on my soufflé making skills.

I’m one of those who love eggs, and I am relieved to be rid of the considerable guilt that egg consumption carried with it for many years.  Science has once again determined that eggs are not the great culprit that we feared.

The cholesterol scare has subsided and The Good Egg’s reputation is repaired – if not elevated.  For the record, blood cholesterol levels are more affected by the saturated fats consumed rather than by cholesterol itself.   Those fatty phospholipids in the humble egg only further serve to diminish the absorption of the yolk’s cholesterol.

Since most of the yolk’s fat is of the non-saturated variety many health professionals now take the stance that regular egg consumption does not affect the average person’s blood cholesterol level.

souffle, oven IMG_0147Sunday Brunch.  A soufflé was the obvious solution this weekend when deciding what to do with an over-abundance of fresh spinach.

Now that I’ve gotten my ratios and rhythm down on soufflé making, the results have been pretty spectacular.  Problem is, I’ve been so concerned with savoring its fragile beauty that getting photos has been a secondary issue.  This time I was prepared, but the result may look strange… since the soufflé was still in the oven.  I wasn’t taking any chances.

souffle 1 IMG_0152
Another Reason to Celebrate.  Not only did we have a delicious soufflé, but we also had beautiful thinly sliced, cold-smoked Norwegian salmon to go along with it.   No question, the combination was utterly exquisite.

Spinach and Cheese Soufflé

Inspired by the Barefoot Contessa, Ina Garten


  • 1 ½ Tbsp. butter
  • 3 Tbsp. all purpose flour
  • 1 ¼ cup milk
  • ½ tsp. salt
  • ¼ tsp. grated nutmeg
  • white pepper, dash
  • 4 large egg yolks, room-temperature
  • l lb. fresh spinach, washed, stemmed and patted dry
  • 2 green onions, trimmed and chopped
  • 1 cup grated cheddar or parmesan cheese, 4 ounces
  • 5 large egg whites, room temperature
  • 1/8 tsp. cream of tartar


  1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Butter the inside of a 2 qt. soufflé dish.  Wilt the spinach leaves and the green onions, then squeeze together to remove moisture and chop thoroughly.  Scald the milk.
  2. In a small pan over low heat, melt the butter; when it begins to bubble stir in the flour, and cook and stir for about 2 minutes.  Remove from heat and slowly whisk the heated milk into the roux, then add the salt, nutmeg and white pepper.  Return to heat; cook and whisk until it begins to thicken, 1 to 2 minutes.  Continue to whisk over low heat for approximately 8 minutes ― until the whisk leaves tracks with sauce.
  3. Remove the sauce from heat and allow it to cool slightly, then whisk in the egg yolks, one at a time.  Stir in the cheese and the spinach mixture and transfer to a large mixing bowl. The base can be held at this point until ready to finish the soufflé.
  4. Place the egg whites and cream of tartar in the bowl of a mixer with whisk attachment and beat on low for 1 minute.  Add a dash of salt and increase speed slightly for another minute.  Increase speed to high and whip until firm, shiny peaks form, approximately 1 to 2 minutes longer.
  5. To combine, whisk ¼ of the beaten egg whites into the spinach-cheese sauce to lighten.  Gently fold in the remaining whites.  Pour the mixture into the prepared dish and smooth the top. Place it in center of the oven and reduce heat by 25 degrees. After 25 minutes, if the soufflé is browning too fast, cover with foil and reduce heat by another 25 degrees.  Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, until it is puffed and brown.  Serve immediately.  The center will be soft, airy and moist; the exterior browned and crunchy.  Yield:  3 to 4 servings