There is little doubt that fall is underway in Oregon’s Willamette Valley. As much as I have held out hope for more warm weather, temperatures this morning dropped to 45 degrees and there is talk that it will get close to freezing overnight.
On the bright side, fall weather gives me ample reason to get a jump on pumpkin season. Earlier, I dashed to the store to stock up on cans of pumpkin pulp, should the mood strike. And of course, it did.
I was not happy with my latest tapioca pudding made in the multicooker. As much as I tried to convince myself otherwise, the tapioca had turned unpleasantly gooey. When you prefer a light creamy tapioca, this is not going to happen when it boils unmercifully under pressure. Excessive heat breaks down the tapioca and turns it rubbery.
Thus, goaded on by my penchant for pumpkin, I was further compelled to launch into a deeper Tapioca Inquiry. Armed with pumpkin and an abundance of small tapioca pearls, I was enthusiastically prepared to get to the bottom of this.
I revisited basic tapioca preparation and began by soaking it for 30 minutes to soften. This cuts overall cooking time, too. With that in mind, it doesn’t take long to prepare old-fashioned tapioca on the stove. The main point is to not let it boil—but allow it to thicken and let the pearls swell.
A couple of eggs helps here. Early on, the yolks are combined with milk to form a custard base and thicken with the tapioca. The pumpkin pulp and spices are added, and finally, the two egg whites are whipped until thick and folded into the pumpkin tapioca to further lighten it. The pumpkin tapioca happens in less than a half hour.
It is good warm√, cool√, or chilled√. Sweet.
⅓ cup small pearl tapioca (not quick tapioca)
¾ cup water
2 eggs, room temperature, divided
2¼ cups 2% milk, room temperature, divided
½ cup brown sugar
1 cup pumpkin pulp
1 tsp cinnamon, ½ tsp ginger, ¼ tsp each salt, nutmeg, and allspice
1 Tbsp granulated sugar
1 tsp vanilla extract
- In advance: soak pearl tapioca in ¾ cup water in 2½ quart pan or larger for 30 minutes to soften.
- In a 1 cup measure beat the egg yolks, whisk in the brown sugar until thick and dissolved, then whisk in ¼ cup milk.
- Place the pot over medium heat. With a spatula stir egg mixture into the soaking tapioca, then add 2 cups milk.
- Bring it to a simmer stirring to keep from sticking on bottom. Once steamy with bubbles beginning to form, reduce heat to low and cook gently for 5 minutes until it thickens and pearls swell.
- Combine the pumpkin, spices, salt and stir into the pot. Cook 5 minutes longer, stirring occasionally with spatula. Meanwhile, in a small mixing bowl beat the egg whites until foamy, slowly add the granulated sugar until thick and peaks form.
- Gently stir ½ cup of hot tapioca into the whipped whites to temper, then fold whites into the tapioca. Cook over low heat, folding and stirring with spatula to thoroughly combine the tapioca until it is hot and steamy, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in the vanilla. Serve warm or cool. Cover and chill in refrigerator 3 hours and up to 3 days. Serves 4 -6